The Hidden Chemistry of PMU: Why Understanding Pigment Composition Matters More Than You Think
- 24 Karat Beauty Academy
- May 21
- 2 min read
When it comes to permanent makeup, most artists are trained to focus on technique—hand speed, stretch, symmetry, and saturation. But what happens when the color heals gray, fades too quickly, or worse—migrates?
The answer often lies not in your technique, but in the chemistry of your pigments.
Welcome to Understanding PMU Pigment Composition & Chemistry—a free, science-backed course designed to help artists master the why behind the what of pigment behavior.
Pigments Aren’t All Created Equal
Whether you're working on brows, lips, eyeliner, or camouflage, the pigments you choose can make or break the healed result. And no, it's not just about the color swatch.
In this course, we dive into:
The difference between organic lakes vs. inorganic iron oxides
Why some pigments fade fast or pull cool
What ingredients to avoid (hello, banned reds and unstable blacks)
The real reasons behind pigment separation, patchy healing, and color shift
Why Every Artist Needs Pigment Chemistry
Let’s be honest—most pigment bottles don’t tell the full story. You may see “warm brown” on the label, but what’s inside could be a blend of CI 77491, 77499, and even CI 15850—each with different particle sizes, solubility, and behavior in the skin.
Understanding your pigment’s:
CI numbers
Carrier base
Stabilizers and preservatives
And even pH level
…can help you predict exactly how it will perform, heal, and fade over time.
This Isn’t Just Theory—It’s Practical Science for Real Artists
This course was created to empower PMU professionals to:
✅ Choose the right pigments for different Fitzpatrick types
✅ Troubleshoot healed results with confidence
✅ Mix and layer pigments safely and effectively
✅ Identify safe, high-quality pigment brands using real compliance documents
We cover rarely-taught essentials like:
Solubility vs. suspension (and why it matters)
pH compatibility with skin
Regulatory chemistry (REACH, FDA, Health Canada)
When to mix vs. when to layer
How to read a Certificate of Analysis or MSDS sheet like a pro
Who This Course Is For
Whether you’re:
A beginner just learning color theory
A seasoned artist wondering why your favorite pigment suddenly healed blue
Or an educator looking to teach safe pigment practices…
This course is for you.
What You'll Get
Bite-sized lessons with real-world examples
Visual charts, pigment breakdowns, and cheat sheets
Swatching exercises and testing methods
A better understanding of what’s really in your pigment bottle
Best of all? It’s completely free.
Final Thoughts
Mastering pigment chemistry is one of the most overlooked skills in our industry—but it’s also one of the most transformative.
When you understand what’s happening at the molecular level, you stop guessing and start predicting. You shift from artist to informed professional.
So if you're ready to level up your pigment knowledge and deliver consistently beautiful, safe, and stable results—join us in the PMU Pigment Composition & Chemistry course.
Your healed work—and your clients—will thank you.
Knowledge is power. Chemistry is your secret weapon.
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